Ferran Adrià y el mundo de la cocina

 

 

Dicen que la cocina está entre nosotros desde el Paleolítico, desde la aparición del homo erectus, desde el día que un ser humano empleó el fuego para guisar alimentos. Ha ido creciendo y evolucionando hasta hoy. Ayer asistí a una conferencia de Ferran Adrià en el “Paraninfo” de la Universidad y ese hombre me dejó claras dos cosas: la determinación por conseguir los objetivos marcados y la valentía para llevarlos a cabo sin importar lo que digan los demás. Esa es su esencia y vende su creatividad y positivismo por todos lados. Solo usa esos dos ingredientes y los mezcla con una cantidad determinada de suerte para conseguir ser el número uno del mundo de la cocina o de lo que quieras. Plato perfecto. Aparecí allí como corresponsal de Ajilimójili ataviado con cámara barata y un blog de notas de hacía tres años. Me senté en la primera fila entre varios invitados acorbatados y de traje perfumado que hablaban de cómo mejorar la estructura de la nueva sala forrada de maderas nobles y de asientos de espuma. Pero al cabo de unos minutos una amable azafata me guió hasta un asiento en la décima fila, entre varios jovenzuelos universitarios de Twitter y chiste fácil. No había encajado bien. La azafata tenía el pelo recogido con una coleta y me guiñó un ojo.

 

Está de moda la cocina, los blogs, los hombres que se meten en ella y ven una vocación que antes se ocultaba por ser poco artística, por mostrar con falsedades que, estar escondido entre fogones y manchas de aceite, es algo arcano y olvidado. Estos nuevos chefs han conseguido colocar la cocina en el lugar que se merece. Comemos varias veces al día y los mediterráneos siempre hemos dedicado tiempo a saborear los alimentos. ¿Por qué no dedicárselo a la investigación gastronómica? "Todo es relativo". Adrià no paraba de decirlo.

 

No me gusta la cocina de Adrià, me gusta más la clásica, la que transmitían las abuelas a sus hijos y que, a finales del siglo XX, se perdió por la incorporación de la mujer al mundo laboral. Esa es la que hay que retomar, mejorar y convertir en un estandarte, que la vuelvan a aprender todos los niños y las niñas. Resulta que Ferran Adrià dice que partió de esa idea para conseguir su revolución. La contextualización de los platos clásicos. Su abuela materna era de Abla. Son detalles que se vanagloriaba. Hay que saber venderse. Y contó su proyecto de fundación y su "Gullipedia" con una gran ilusión para el futuro. Los jóvenes universitarios se reían de un pequeño tic del conferenciante. "Nano, nano", repetía cada treinta segundos. Todo un artista con zapatillas rojas. Los chavales me preguntaron la hora y salieron por patas para tomarse unas cervezas en el bar Romera. El Romera es toda una institución en esa Universidad. Al fin y al cabo ellos son los que tienen que saborear los buenos platos y cambiar otra vez el mundo. Yo, mientras tanto, busqué a la azafata de la coleta entre los flashes y aplausos del graderío.

 

Vídeo del proyecto Bullipedia que Ferran Adrià presentó en el acto

 

Comentarios

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