Croquetas viajeras: Casa Ricardo (Sevilla)

 

Proclaman los lugareños que lo mejor de Sevilla cabe en 50 metros cuadrados: el Gran Poder, Eslava y Casa Ricardo.

Algo exagerado, por supuesto, estamos hablando de andaluces occidentales, pero no desencaminado si nos atenemos al gentío que transita ese triángulo mágico los fines de semana y días de guardar.

Olé y ozú, devoción y placer, religión y gastronomía, incienso y fritanga, manzanilla y Cruzcampos.

 

 

Pues de Casa Ricardo (Hernán Cortes, 2) queríamos hablarles hoy, concretamente de sus famosas croquetas de jamón (que se transmuta en bacalao cuando hay cuaresma), la tapa estrella de este conocido bar del barrio de San Lorenzo consumidas diariamente en cantidades opíparas, que a eso de las doce y media pueden ver deambular en bandejas de doscientas con destino a las freidoras de su cocina.

La taberna, que antes era Casa Ovidio y que ya es centenaria, reúne lo mejor y lo peor de la escenografía sevillana. Esos camareros ocurrentes hasta lo cansino, la Semana Santa resoplando por cada poro del bar en forma de estampitas, medallas, armaos, fondos musicales de marchas procesionales, videos de cofradías y la popular pizarra en que se van anotando todo el año los días que faltan para tan señalada fecha.

Pero señores, dejando de lado estos bonitos detalles de costumbrismo alpargatero que tanto gusta al turismo anglófilo, aquí venimos a tapear y en eso no hay discusiones que impidan catalogar a Casa Ricardo como referente en Sevilla, y eso, señores, son palabras mayores.

 

 

De la cata de croquetas comentar que la bechamel está en su punto líquido ideal, se derriten en la boca y dejan transitar en el paladar el sabor del jamón, que es uno de sus secretos, en taquitos, de una calidad supina. Sabe a poco la tapa, así que un consejo de croquetero experto: pidan una ración, que se les hará corta.

 

Por si fuera poca la lisonja, decir que hasta pregón propio tienen las susodichas, obra del periodista Antonio Cattoni y que por su interés antropológico reproducimos a continuación. Disfrútenlo:

 

“Yo sé que no te hace falta

guarnición ahí a tu vera,

sofisticadas freidoras,

lecho a cama patatera,

ni sal para estar sabrosa,

truquitos para ser tierna,

piropos para tu cuerpo,

o tus amorfas caderas,

ni picos, ni pan, ni miga

para esa tez tan morena.

Yo sé que no necesitas

que a ti te llamen cloqueta,

ni cocina de diseño,

ni papelón, ni menestra,

ni que destrocen tu cuerpo,

por tu abdomen, regordeta,

ni recetarios de nácar,

ni Arzak, ni Adriá, ni monsergas,

ni platos de pura plata,

ni alabanzas sempiternas,

a esa cara tan gitana

bronceada en cazoleta.

Yo se que tu no me pides

rebozado de primera,

mil besos de pan rallado,

profusión de servilletas,

titulo de capitana,

ni una corona de Reina,

ni compaña de otras tantas

cofradía croquetera.

Pero aunque no me lo pidas,

yo quisiera que tú tengas

un menaje de esmeralda,

cucharón de madreperla,

una bandeja de oro,

rostrillo de servilleta,

un altar aquí en Ricardo,

y un salvamantel de estrellas,

por que en Ovidio tú eres

su especialidad maestra,

y eres ira de acedías,

( y una macha en mi pernera),

y mejoras el aceite,

bañándote en la pileta,

y eres preciosa vianda,

que encierra tras su corteza,

bechamel serena y clara

que es licuada panacea,

y además de negra, guapa,

y además pelota excelsa,

y dorado proyectil,

y primor de sobaquera,

¡Que eres bocado del cielo

con un vaso de cerveza!”

 

Una vez hayan catado las obligatorias croquetas, se puede uno recrear con otras opciones que está n a la altura: el lomo con panceta, la merluza rellena, las anchoas con leche condensada (curiosa mezcla que sorprenderá a más de uno), los flamenquines, las espinacas con piñones, el queso al horno...

Es amplia la carta como debe ser, y hay para todos los paladares.

 

 

Ya puede uno salir a patearse las transitadas calles del centro, esquivando ciclistas y capillitas a diestro y siniestro o darse una vuelta en el tranvía, o en el metro, y constatar en que se gastan nuestros cuartos por estos parajes mientras por aquí aún andamos a vueltas con el soterramiento.

 

 

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