Croquetas Viajeras: Los Manueles (Granada)


Seguimos ruta croquetera por tierras de Andalucía, cual Camilo José Cela en Alcarria tapeadora. Hoy nos detenemos a la sombra de la Alhambra a comprobar si lo de la mala follá tiene fundamento.



Un bar con casi cien años de vida no puede dejar de despertar simpatías entre los practicantes de esta religión nuestra en que se ha convertido la tapa.

Y que mejor profeta para divulgar la palabra, que la gloriosa y regordeta croqueta, cuyo simple nombre ya despierta simpatías y admiración entre la muchachada, amén de faltas de ortografía por doquier ( que si una cocreta, que si otra crocreta y hasta he escuchado lo de croquetra... estos de la LOGSE...).


Y es que Los Manueles (C/ Reyes Católicos, 61) viene acompañando a los granainos en sus quehaceres diarios desde 1917, primero en la popular calle Navas ( también conocida como la calle del Tapeo) y ahora en Plaza Nueva, con un local más moderno y amplio donde seguir impartiendo lecciones gastronómicas entre la clientela.





Granada, aunque no lo canten Los Planetas, es tierra de croquetas, para que vamos a negarlo. Desde las ya míticas del añorado El Leño, la tradición croquetera se ha mantenido vigente, sumando nuevos adeptos a la causa que no decae y se va reinventando en función de los ingredientes y la imaginación del cocinero.


Son las croquetas de Los Manueles verdaderos croquetones, duplicando, casi triplicando, el tamaño de una croqueta ortodoxa, lo cual obliga al comensal a usar cuchillo y tenedor para engullirla. Una bechamel suave y la mezcla de pollo en su justa medida adornan una croqueta voluptuosa que se goza sin prisas, ideal para esa parada que el visitante ejerce entre el deambular entre el Paseo de los Tristes y el bullicio de Calle Elvira.



Si se han quedado con hambre tras la preceptiva croqueta, pueden tratar adivinar los ingredientes de la tortilla Sacromonte, o probar suerte con la enumeración de las tapas, a ver que toca, que ya se sabe que en Granada no puede uno elegir ( algo que por cierto, pese a su encanto, encuentra sus detractores y va cambiando poco a poco hacía formulas más racionales).


Ya no queda sino rematar faena con piononos de la Isla y acordarse de la celebre frase del maestro Gomez de la Serna, gran aficionado a la croqueta:


“Las croquetas deberían tener hueso, para que pudiéramos llevar la cuenta de las que comemos!



Las croquetas de Los Manueles, siempre fueron de jamón.

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